Episode 21: A Bat's Best Friend & Ancient Alcohol- Agave
Hello and welcome back to another week of rooted! This week we are taking a closer look at another fan request- a desert staple and favorite of bartenders and bats alike- Agave.
Agave isn’t just one plant, but a genus of monocots. They are native to dry, arid regions of north and south america as well as the caribbean. They are often referred to as succulent, as they dont require much water, have relatively shallow roots, and most easily reproduce through pups. They are known for their thick, spikey leaves that are often a blue-ish green color, and grow in massive rosettes that dot the desert landscape.
They belong to the aparagesea family, but it took us a while (and a lot of genetic research) to group them there. However, if you’ve ever seen one with it’s gigantic- asparagus-like bloom, it really isn’t all that surprising.
Speaking of blooms, agaves bloom only once in their life cycle. Because of this, they are technically considered multi-annuals- not perennials, as each plant can only bloom and go to seed once. When they do bloom, agaves put all of their energy into their flower, creating a massive stalk that towers over the landscape, and produces a ton of seeds meant to be scattered out in hopes of finding a new place to spread out.
While the effort is draining, and moderately unsuccessful, with a very low rate of successful growth due to the sheer number of lucky breaks the seeds need to sprout, it’s worth it to ensure genetic diversity in agave, and to help them adapt with changing climates.
While seeds are important to the lifecycle of agave, it’s definitely not the most common form of reproduction. The fastest way agave can reproduce is through pups- basically they have a short, uncomplicated rhizome system above their roots, which allows them to sprout out genetic clones of themselves. That’s pretty cool and all, but also does nothing to support genetic diversity of the species, leaving all plants from that group susceptible to the same pests, diseases, and other issues.
Now that we know a little more about what agaves are and how they grow , let’s dive deeper into where they came from- at least, according to Aztec legend…
Once upon a time, the wind god Ehecatl eh hey cotl had grown tired of Tzitzimitl,tee zee mehtil the evil goddess of light’s antics. She had literally blocked out the light, and had unleashed her scary chaotic demons onto the earth below, allowing them to eat anyone and everyone they came into contact with. One day, Ehecatl had had enough, and decided it was time to end all that noise once and for all. As he ascended to her home ready to throw down, he discovered her beautiful granddaughter- Mayahuel maya-hwell, the goddess of fertility. Apparently Tzinizmitl was jealous of her youth and beauty, and was holding her captive. Instead of attacking her, Ehecatl fell in love with her, and took her back to earth. Unfortunately, Tzinzimitl wasn’t too far behind them, so they decided to turn themselves into plants to hide.
One version of the story is that they became trees so that they could caress everytime the wind blew…which is like, if your partner isn't so committed to you that even in being a PLANT they want to be with you?! Find a better partner. ANYWAY- the whole tree disguise worked for a while, but then Tzintzmitl found them and was PISSED about the years-long goose chase…so she did what any scorned lady would do, and raised a little hell. In her rage, she killed Mayahuel. Ehecatl was devastated. He went to her grave every day and wept. Eventually, the other gods got a little worried, and decided they should all come together to offer him something. They settled on a plant, which bloomed forth from Ehecatl’s tears, and they made it slightly hallucinogens to help numb his pain.
The other version is that they became a new plant that was made of long green spikes to represent their literal fall from the sky, and with spikes to protect them from Tzinzmitl. They lived entwined like that for a while, but eventually they were discovered. And when Tzinzmitl found them, she realized she wouldn’t be able to stop them because of the spikes, so instead she burnt the plant. But, in her anger, she missed some of the plant, and it sprang back to life as an agave.
But the story doesn't start- or end- there…..
Presumably before she met and fell in love with Ehecatl, Mayahuel had a bit of a fling with Patecatl who was the Lord of 13 Days (who apparently is credited with discovering peyote’s hallucinogenic properties). The result? some awkwardness, maybe a little regret, and you know, the 400 rabbit children she was left to raise alone. That’s why sometimes Mayahuel is also called the goddess of 400 breasts- she had to feed all of those kids somehow.
And seeing as she is later became agave, and agave’s “milk” is what causes drunkenness, it should come as no surprise that her army of rabbit children, also known as the Centzon Totochtin- are often depicted in different states of stupor, with each one said to represent a different stage of drunkenness. For example, rabbit 2 , sometimes called Ometochtli is said to embody the confidence of someone who is slightly inebriated- fun, carefree, and relaxed. While Rabbit 5, or Macuiltochtli is said to have had a bit too much, and might wake up with a slight hangover. The bigger the rabbit's number, the more extreme (and negative) the symptoms get.
These siblings are also where the saying “As drunk as 400 rabbits” comes from.
The first person to apparently reach this level of drunkenness? A possum god named Tlacuache
,was responsible for assigning the course of rivers. The story goes that he was notoriously good at finding food, and remembering the exact location he found it in. One day he was extremely thirsty after a long day plotting out a river. He stumbled upon an agave, and drank as much liquid as he could from the leaves. Thirst appropriately quenched, he headed home. The next day, he returned to the agave for yet another drink. But this time, the liquid had fermented into Pulque, so when he drank it he got extremely drunk, and stumbled home. Apparently enjoying the experience, Tlacuache continued to visit the agave, and others near his river sites regularly, and it's said that any time a river curves, it’s likely because he is a little tipsy.
Pulque, the drink mentioned in the last 2 stories, is kind of like an early tequila. It’s not as alcoholic, but is a milky white substance that comes from the leaves of the plant. Interestingly, the liquid in agave begins to ferment within 24 hours of being cut, so it takes very little time for this drink to be made. In fact, traditionally it is drank directly from the center of the agave plant, within a day or so of being cut. It’s said to be a little sour, but still creamy and with a sweetness similar to coconut. To those unfamiliar, it is often to be an acquired taste and texture, so often places in mexico that still make this drink (which are rare) will mix it with fruit juices to make it more palatable.
In the days of the Aztecs, this drink was said to be of the gods, and therefore reserved only for those who were sick, elderly, of high importance, or those who were going to take part in ritualistic sacrifice. It is said to strengthen your ability to communicate with the gods, and was therefore not to be used without specific cause.
Of course, now the use of agave in alcoholic beverages is regarded far more casually, with drinks such as mezcal and tequila being extremely popular. But, what’s the difference between the two?
Tequila is made from the heart of blue webber agave in only certain regions of mexico including: alisco, Guanajuato, and Tamaulipas. The hearts are roasted in ovens, then shredded by using either industrial shredders, or more traditional Tahonas, which is a large stone blade dragged by a donkey. They are then left to ferment with a proprietary yeast, and finally distilled at least 2x in copper barrels.
While that is the general process, it can vary a bit depending on the exact variety of tequila!
Mezcal, on the other hand, is most often made from the agave angustifolia, but can be made from 30 different varieties. All mezcal comes from regions like: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, and Puebla
It is cooked in an underground fire, which is what gives it it’s signature smokey flavor. It is then left to ferment with it’s natural agave fibers (no yeast or anything added, and then distilled in a clay or copper pot.
There are TONS of agave-based alcohols out there though! Some Additional (though less common) agave-based drinks include Raicilla (rye-see-ya) and Bacanora.
Raicilla is made with pretty much any agave BUT the blue webber (the one that makes tequila. Then, in what seems to be pretty standard practice for modern agave based alcohol, the heart is boiled, mashed by way of a giant mallet, and then left to ferment in either wooden vats, OR vats that have been chiseled into the earth. Racilla is unique in that the agave paste mixture is then combined with other (often local) herbaceous materials to add additional flavor like caraway, mint, and apparently even blue cheese. It’s most common to drink Raicilla straight, but it can also be used as a gin substitute.
Bacanora is made similarly to mezcal, but in the state of Sonora, Mexico. It is made from the pacific agave, and is roasted with mesquite charcoal in underground pits, then crushed and distilled like the others. Bacanora is said to taste like a less smokey, pepper forward/herby cousin of mezcal, and is normally served neat, or in more citrus-forward cocktails as a substitute for mezcal.
But agave isn’t just used in alcohol. It has also historically played a large role in medicine, and other aspects of daily life.
In medicine, Pulque was often used as paste for cuts and burns, as it was believed to be sacred and have healing properties.
Agave fiber also played a vital role in creating textiles and other building materials, as it is super strong, fairly easy to come by, and easily takes on color-making it ideal for clothing and trade.
Today we mostly use agave for the aforementioned drinks, but we also use it to make our lives a little sweeter….
Agave nectar has been steadily gaining popularity as a substitute to honey. With a similar sweetness, viscosity, and even color to that of honey, it’s easy to see why vegans and others who may not be avle to eat honey would love the stuff!
But it’s not just humans who are super into the agave’s nectar- apparently some of our lesser-loved pollinator pals dig the stuff too…
Much like wolf spiders to cranberry farmers , most agave farmers rely on support from bats to help keep their agaves healthy, and help the plants produce seeds to keep their crops adapting and genetically diverse.
bats are actually some of the most efficient pollinators or agave, with some species being exclusively pollinated by bats! They are acting similarly to pees here, as what they are ACTUALLY doing is eating the pollen, and pollinating as kind of a secondary act. Conservationists with groups such as bat conservation international have actually planted nearly one million agave plants in stretches of desert across eastern mexico, new mexico and arizona in order to help support migratory bats.
Apparently rats also like to eat the leaves, which is way less fun for me. Wood rats are the most notorious, but a variety of desert dwelling rodents rely on agave as a vital source of hydration.
Agave is also playing a vital role in adaptive biotechnology, as it is being studied to help support other plants as they need to grow and adapt with changing water availability and seasons due to climate change. Because it can survive in some of the harshest climates in the world with little to no support, they are a prime candidate for helping our future crops be more drought tolerant, and less reliant on human intervention in terms of health and productivity.
Agave is one of the most well known, and perhaps most cultivated desert plants. With massive alien-like, tons of tasty beverages, and its vital role in ancient culture as well as modern ecosystems, it’s easy to see why. If you are fortunate enough to live near some wild-growing agave, make sure you say hello, and tell them to keep up the good work! And if you have some planted in your landscapes, be sure to be careful with the amount of water you give them, and keep an eye out for the dinosaur like fields of aparagus that can come when a full colony blooms at once- it’s always one of my favorite parts of the summer season here in the desert southwest!
Sources:
https://www.learnreligions.com/aztec-legend-agave-and-tequila-760162
https://www.thenotsoinnocentsabroad.com/blog/agave-mythology-and-pulque-folk-tales
https://greatagave.com/history-of-agave/
https://www.agavalestequila.com/a-brief-history-of-the-agave-plant
https://latina.com/the-history-of-mexicos-agave-spirits/
http://experiencemayahuel.com/legend-goddess-mayahuel-aztec-mythology/
https://cocktailsandbars.com/agave-spirits-tequila-mezcal-raicilla-sotol-bacanora-pulque/5/
